National costumes are worn during official national as well as traditional ceremonies. The most obvious display of Indonesian national costumes can be seen by the type of costumes wore by President of Indonesia and Indonesian first lady, and also Indonesian diplomatic officials during gala dinner. The national costumes of Indonesia can be seen wore by the guest of Indonesian traditional wedding ceremony.
National costumes
Batik
Batik is a cloth that is traditionally made using a manual wax-resist dyeing technique to form intricate patterns. Traditionally batik cloth is a large piece of intricately decorated cloth used by Javanese women as kemben or torso wrap. Batik cloth were wrapped around the hips with multiple folds in front called wiron, while the upper torso wear kebaya fitted dress. Traditionally for men, the edge of batik cloth also can be sewn together to make a tubular cloth as sarong, or wrapped around hips as kain in fashion similar to women's. Later for men, the batik cloth also sewn and made into contemporary batik men's shirt.
Batik is recognized as one of the important identity of Indonesian culture.UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve their heritage.
Kebaya
The kebaya is the national costume of Indonesia, although it is more accurately endemic to the Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese peoples. It is sometimes made from sheer material such as silk, thin cotton or semi-transparent nylon or polyester, adorned with brocade or floral pattern embroidery. Kebaya usually worn with a sarong or batik kain panjang, or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif.
The earliest form of Kebaya originates in the court of the Javanese Majapahit Kingdom as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.
Kebaya is usually worn during official national events by Indonesian first lady, wives of Indonesian diplomats, and Indonesian ladies. It also worn by Indonesian ladies attending traditional ceremonies and weddings. In Kartini day in 21 April Indonesian women usually wear Kebaya to celebrate and honor the Indonesian women emancipation heroine. During Balinese traditional ceremonies, Balinese women wore colorful Balinese style kebaya with songket Bali.
Peci
Traditionally in Southeast Asia peci, songkok, or kopiah are associated with muslim men's cap. However in Indonesia, the songkok has become the national headdress with secular nationalist connotations made popular by Sukarno. The name "peci" was probably derived from the Dutch word petje means literary "small hat", or probably derived from the Turkishfez instead. Numbers of Indonesian nationalist movement activist in early 20th century wore peci such as Sukarno, Muhamad Hatta, and Agus Salim. However, as the first president of Indonesia it was Sukarno that popularize peci — more precisely plain black velvet peci — as national men's cap of Indonesian,and Indonesian male presidents always wear peci as part of their official presidential attire eversince. Indonesian official palace guards also wore peci as part of their uniform. The Paskibraka (Indonesian: pasukan kibar bendera pusaka) or flag raising squad in Indonesian independence day ceremony also wear peci, and there is even female peci version with curved back.
Songket
Songket is a fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Indonesia, Malaysia and Bruneo. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads.The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads.
The term songket comes from the OldMusi word sungkit, which means "to hook". It has something to do with the method of songket making; to hook and pick a group of threads, and then slip the gold and silverthreads in it.Another theory suggested that it was constructed from the combination of two terms; tusuk (prick) and cukit (pick) that combined as sukit, modified further as sungki and finally songket.Some says that the word songket was derived from songka, a Palembang cap in which gold threads was first woven.The Malay word menyongket means ‘to embroider with gold or silver threads’. Songket is a luxury product traditionally worn during ceremonial occasions as sarong, shoulder cloths or head ties and tanjak, a headdress songket. Songket were worn at the courts of the Malay Kingdoms in Sumatra especially Srivijaya, as the source and the origin of Malay culture in Southeast Asia.In the early kingdom age, Songkets are also traditionally worn as an apparel by the Indonesian royal families in Sumatra such as the Deli Sultanate in Medan, Serdang Sultanate, Palembang Sultanate in Palembang and the recently restored royal house in Jambi. Traditionally women are the weavers of songket, however in this modern time males also are known woving it as well.
Ulos
Tanjak
Ulos is the traditional cloth of the Batak people of North Sumatra. Different kinds of ulos have different ceremonial significance. The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand woven and in the case of higher-quality examples are significant family heirlooms, to be worn at important events, such as funerals and weddings.
With increasing modernisation has come the decline in significance of the ulos, with many varieties no longer in demand.
Ulos made with manual loom machine. A spinner (Sorha) used to make cotton into yards. Pamanggung using to tie yards. Pagabe to hold the yard. Baliga, used to organize yards. Hatalungan ised to separating yards. Pamapan used to make the yard into cloth. Palabuan (Periuk tanah)used to saving coloring water. Ulos made of cotton and the coloring water made of barks, grass, roots, mud or leaves.
Ikat
kat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process on the warp fibres, the weft fibres, or in the rare and costly 'double ikat' both warp and weft, prior to dyeing and weaving.
In ikat, the resist is formed by binding bundles of threads with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The threads are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered and the thread bundles dyed again with another color to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are woven into cloth. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as tie-dye and batik, the resist is applied to one face of the woven cloth, whereas in ikat the threads are dyed before weaving, and both faces are essentially identical in appearance.
Tenun
Tenun is a technique in the manufacture of fabrics made with a simple principle, namely by combining the lengthwise yarns and melintang.Dengan other words bersilangnya between warp and weft threads are woven bergantian.Kain usually made from wood fiber, cotton, silk, and others.
Manufacture of woven fabrics is common in Indonesia, especially in Java, Sumatra, and Kalimantan.Biasanya production of woven fabric made in the scale house tangga.Beberapa area well known for the production of cloth is tenunnya West Sumatra, Palembang and West Java.
The art of weaving is closely related to knowledge systems, cultures, beliefs, natural environment, and the system of social organization in masyarakat.Karena social culture in a diverse society, the art of weaving in each region have perbedaan.Oleh Therefore, the art of weaving in the community is always or have a particular characteristic, and is part of the cultural representation of woven tersebut.Kualitas usually seen from the quality of materials, the beauty of full color, pattern, and yeast.
Baju Kurung
Baju kurung is one of the custom clothing Malay community in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and southern Thailand. Diasosiasi brackets clothes often with women. Characteristic design clothes brackets are loose on the arm pit, stomach, and chest. By the time the bottom of clothes brackets parallel to the groin, but for some rare cases that extends parallel to the knee. Brackets are not fitted shirt buttons, but almost similar to the t-shirt. Nor brackets collared shirt, laced each end. Some of its part is often decorated with golden embroidery.
Initially, baju kurung commonly used for oversize ceremony wither by women in the kingdom, is shared songket to be a sheath, a variety of gold jewelry, and a small bag or a fan. Since most of the Malay community embraced Islam, many female users are menyerasikannya baju kurung with a headscarf, though there is also no use. Now baju kurung is widely used by ordinary people, used the children to recite, or mothers to go to the market, without the included trinkets that seemed luxurious.
Baju Bodo
Baju bodo is the traditional dress of women Bugis Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Baju bodo rectangular, usually short sleeved, which is half of the top part of the arm elbow. Baju Bodo is also recognized as one of the world's oldest fashion.
According to custom Bugis, every color of clothes worn by women bodo Bugis show pemakainya.Pakaian age or dignity is often used for custom events such as wedding ceremonies. But now, baju bodo start revitalized through other events such as dance competitions or grand welcome guests.
In the past, the clothes can be worn without a cover bodo breast. This had already been noted James Brooke (who later became king appointed the sultan of Brunei Sarawak) in 1840 when he visited the Palace of Bone:
"Women [Bugis] wearing simple clothes ... A blade sheath [cover waist] to feet and loose clothing of thin muslin (gauze), showing breasts and chest leluk-dent." Apparently means wearing bodo still valid in 1930's.
Blangkon
A blangkon or belangkon (Indonesian) is a traditional Javanese headdress worn by men and made of batik fabric. There are 4 different types of blangkons according to their shapes and origins: Ngayogyakarta blangkons, Surakarta blangkons, Kedu blangkons, and Banyumasan blangkons.
In ancient Javanese society, blangkons are believed to originate from the legendary story of Aji Saka. In the story, Aji Saka defeated Dewata Cengkar, agiant who owns the land of Java, by spreading a giant piece of headdress that could cover the entire land of Java. Aji Saka was also believed to be the founder of the Javanese calendar.
There are theories stating that the use of blangkon is the influence of Hindu and Islamic culture absorbed by the Javanese. The first Muslims who entered Java are people from mainland Arab and Gujarati traders. Blangkons are believed to derive from turbans worn by Gujarati traders.
Thank you! This was very informative!
ReplyDelete