Thursday, September 18, 2014

Indonesian Traditional Costume

National costume of Indonesia are national costume that represent Republic of Indonesia. It is derived from Indonesian culture and Indonesian traditional textile traditions. Today the most widely recognize Indonesian national costume are Batik and Kebaya, although originally those costumes are mainly belongs within the culture of Java and Bali, most prominently within Javanese,Sundanese Balinese culture.Since Java is the center of Indonesian politics since colonial era, as well as the majority of Indonesian population, it is only natural that the folk costume from Java are elevated into national status.
National costumes are worn during official national as well as traditional ceremonies. The most obvious display of Indonesian national costumes can be seen by the type of costumes wore by President of Indonesia and Indonesian first lady, and also Indonesian diplomatic officials during gala dinner. The national costumes of Indonesia can be seen wore by the guest of Indonesian traditional wedding ceremony.

National costumes

Batik


Batik is a cloth that is traditionally made using a manual wax-resist dyeing technique to form intricate patterns. Traditionally batik cloth is a large piece of intricately decorated cloth used by Javanese women as kemben or torso wrap. Batik cloth were wrapped around the hips with multiple folds in front called wiron, while the upper torso wear kebaya fitted dress. Traditionally for men, the edge of batik cloth also can be sewn together to make a tubular cloth as sarong, or wrapped around hips as kain in fashion similar to women's. Later for men, the batik cloth also sewn and made into contemporary batik men's shirt.

Batik is recognized as one of the important identity of Indonesian culture.UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve their heritage.

Kebaya

The kebaya is the national costume of Indonesia, although it is more accurately endemic to the Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese peoples. It is sometimes made from sheer material such as silk, thin cotton or semi-transparent nylon or polyester, adorned with brocade or floral pattern embroidery. Kebaya usually worn with a sarong or batik kain panjang, or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif.
The earliest form of Kebaya originates in the court of the Javanese Majapahit Kingdom as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.
Kebaya is usually worn during official national events by Indonesian first lady, wives of Indonesian diplomats, and Indonesian ladies. It also worn by Indonesian ladies attending traditional ceremonies and weddings. In Kartini day in 21 April Indonesian women usually wear Kebaya to celebrate and honor the Indonesian women emancipation heroine. During Balinese traditional ceremonies, Balinese women wore colorful Balinese style kebaya with songket Bali.

Peci

Traditionally in Southeast Asia peci, songkok, or kopiah are associated with muslim men's cap. However in Indonesia, the songkok has become the national headdress with secular nationalist connotations made popular by Sukarno. The name "peci" was probably derived from the Dutch word petje means literary "small hat", or probably derived from the Turkishfez instead. Numbers of Indonesian nationalist movement activist in early 20th century wore peci such as Sukarno, Muhamad Hatta, and Agus Salim. However, as the first president of Indonesia it was Sukarno that popularize peci — more precisely plain black velvet peci — as national men's cap of Indonesian,and Indonesian male presidents always wear peci as part of their official presidential attire eversince. Indonesian official palace guards also wore peci as part of their uniform. The Paskibraka (Indonesian: pasukan kibar bendera pusaka) or flag raising squad in Indonesian independence day ceremony also wear peci, and there is even female peci version with curved back.

Songket

Songket is a fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Indonesia, Malaysia and Bruneo. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads.The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads.
The term songket comes from the OldMusi word sungkit, which means "to hook". It has something to do with the method of songket making; to hook and pick a group of threads, and then slip the gold and silverthreads in it.Another theory suggested that it was constructed from the combination of two terms; tusuk (prick) and cukit (pick) that combined as sukit, modified further as sungki and finally songket.Some says that the word songket was derived from songka, a Palembang cap in which gold threads was first woven.The Malay word menyongket means ‘to embroider with gold or silver threads’. Songket is a luxury product traditionally worn during ceremonial occasions as sarong, shoulder cloths or head ties and tanjak, a headdress songket. Songket were worn at the courts of the Malay Kingdoms in Sumatra especially Srivijaya, as the source and the origin of Malay culture in Southeast Asia.In the early kingdom age, Songkets are also traditionally worn as an apparel by the Indonesian royal families in Sumatra such as the Deli Sultanate in MedanSerdang Sultanate, Palembang Sultanate in Palembang and the recently restored royal house in Jambi. Traditionally women are the weavers of songket, however in this modern time males also are known woving it as well.
Ulos


Ulos is the traditional cloth of the Batak people of North Sumatra. Different kinds of ulos have different ceremonial significance. The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand woven and in the case of higher-quality examples are significant family heirlooms, to be worn at important events, such as funerals and weddings.
With increasing modernisation has come the decline in significance of the ulos, with many varieties no longer in demand.
Ulos made with manual loom machine. A spinner (Sorha) used to make cotton into yards. Pamanggung using to tie yards. Pagabe to hold the yard. Baliga, used to organize yards. Hatalungan ised to separating yards. Pamapan used to make the yard into cloth. Palabuan (Periuk tanah)used to saving coloring water. Ulos made of cotton and the coloring water made of barks, grass, roots, mud or leaves.

Ikat


kat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process on the warp fibres, the weft fibres, or in the rare and costly 'double ikat' both warp and weft, prior to dyeing and weaving.
In ikat, the resist is formed by binding bundles of threads with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The threads are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered and the thread bundles dyed again with another color to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are woven into cloth. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as tie-dye and batik, the resist is applied to one face of the woven cloth, whereas in ikat the threads are dyed before weaving, and both faces are essentially identical in appearance.
Ikat is most characteristic of Indonesia, though ikats have also been woven in India and central Asia. Double ikats are produced in a few places including the Okinawa islands of Japan, the village of Tenganan in Bali, and the villages of Puttapaka and Bhoodan Pochampally in India.

Tenun

Tenun is a technique in the manufacture of fabrics made with a simple principle, namely by combining the lengthwise yarns and melintang.Dengan other words bersilangnya between warp and weft threads are woven bergantian.Kain usually made from wood fiber, cotton, silk, and others. 

Manufacture of woven fabrics is common in Indonesia, especially in Java, Sumatra, and Kalimantan.Biasanya production of woven fabric made ​​in the scale house tangga.Beberapa area well known for the production of cloth is tenunnya West Sumatra, Palembang and West Java. 

The art of weaving is closely related to knowledge systems, cultures, beliefs, natural environment, and the system of social organization in masyarakat.Karena social culture in a diverse society, the art of weaving in each region have perbedaan.Oleh Therefore, the art of weaving in the community is always or have a particular characteristic, and is part of the cultural representation of woven tersebut.Kualitas usually seen from the quality of materials, the beauty of full color, pattern, and yeast.

Baju Kurung

Baju kurung is one of the custom clothing Malay community in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and southern Thailand. Diasosiasi brackets clothes often with women. Characteristic design clothes brackets are loose on the arm pit, stomach, and chest. By the time the bottom of clothes brackets parallel to the groin, but for some rare cases that extends parallel to the knee. Brackets are not fitted shirt buttons, but almost similar to the t-shirt. Nor brackets collared shirt, laced each end. Some of its part is often decorated with golden embroidery. 

Initially, baju kurung commonly used for oversize ceremony wither by women in the kingdom, is shared songket to be a sheath, a variety of gold jewelry, and a small bag or a fan. Since most of the Malay community embraced Islam, many female users are menyerasikannya baju kurung with a headscarf, though there is also no use. Now baju kurung is widely used by ordinary people, used the children to recite, or mothers to go to the market, without the included trinkets that seemed luxurious.

Baju Bodo

Baju bodo is the traditional dress of women Bugis Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Baju bodo rectangular, usually short sleeved, which is half of the top part of the arm elbow. Baju Bodo is also recognized as one of the world's oldest fashion. 
According to custom Bugis, every color of clothes worn by women bodo Bugis show pemakainya.Pakaian age or dignity is often used for custom events such as wedding ceremonies. But now, baju bodo start revitalized through other events such as dance competitions or grand welcome guests. 
In the past, the clothes can be worn without a cover bodo breast. This had already been noted James Brooke (who later became king appointed the sultan of Brunei Sarawak) in 1840 when he visited the Palace of Bone: 

"Women [Bugis] wearing simple clothes ... A blade sheath [cover waist] to feet and loose clothing of thin muslin (gauze), showing breasts and chest leluk-dent." Apparently means wearing bodo still valid in 1930's.

Blangkon

blangkon or belangkon (Indonesian) is a traditional Javanese headdress worn by men and made of batik fabric. There are 4 different types of blangkons according to their shapes and origins: Ngayogyakarta blangkons, Surakarta blangkons, Kedu blangkons, and Banyumasan blangkons.


In ancient Javanese society, blangkons are believed to originate from the legendary story of Aji Saka. In the story, Aji Saka defeated Dewata Cengkar, agiant who owns the land of Java, by spreading a giant piece of headdress that could cover the entire land of Java. Aji Saka was also believed to be the founder of the Javanese calendar.

There are theories stating that the use of blangkon is the influence of Hindu and Islamic culture absorbed by the Javanese. The first Muslims who entered Java are people from mainland Arab and Gujarati traders. Blangkons are believed to derive from turbans worn by Gujarati traders.

Tanjak

Tengkolok, also recognized as a headband, dance pose / dance pose, headdress upstream and handkerchief head, a kind of traditional Malay head pad that is used by the class of men. Tengkolok done rather than long songket folded and tied in the style (snappy) are given. In the current era, tengkolok more widely used in the majlis-majlis full customs, such as by relatives in the audience of kings and the royal majlis customs, and by the bridegroom when the majlis marriage. Following Council Dictionary (4th edition), the term "tengkolok", "headband", and "setanjak" / "dance pose" are synonymous; other than those described above, the words "tengkolok" also refers to the "cloth head covering or veil (rather than silk, etc.) that is worn by women", understanding tengkolok as head women's footwear is rarely used these days. However, the said bahawa tengkolok sesetengah, headband, and dance pose is differing in terms of the type of fabric and / or bond together despite their usefulness, which is under his head tengkolok made ​​the grade fabrics coated windings (bold) and tapered to the top; "headband" too low and lime windings versus tengkolok; "dance pose" as well as tengkolok windings, but the fabric is more concise and lime.

Iket
Iket or totopong (Sunda) or udeng (Bali) is a head covering is part of the fabric of everyday completeness men in Java and Bali, from time immemorial until about the early 1900's and became popular back in 2013 Usage iket for men in the past puberty become imperative because it is believed to protect them from evil spirits, in addition to practical functions such as containers / wrappers, blankets, pads for carrying loads on their heads, etc., whereas today more intended as accessories and efforts to preserve Wearing budayaCara iket style Sundanese (accessed October 31, 2011). Miscellaneous iket Sunda In the Sundanese people of West Java in particular, the headgear made ​​of cloth known as iket or totopong or udeng, everything is functioning as a protective head dress completeness. In addition there is also dudukuy headgear made ​​from plants such as bamboo, wood and leaves that only serves as a protection from heat and rain head. In ancient times iket also reflects class in society, it seems clear difference in the position until a person (male) in everyday life. In addition iket Sundanese also as part of the completeness of dress that is used also to meet the needs of the cultural values ​​associated with the culture, customs and way of life of society. Meaning iket Sunda Originally iket word is a common word which means to tie or bond. But because something was bound head (men) and lasts while dangdan or dangdos or dress finally said iket it be a special word or term that implies headband. Iket deemed appropriate and considered as something that can protect the head while doing the activity and also become a social attribute. Its various forms was created as a symbol associated with the religious, ceremonial, and social status of public figures who are considered to have a role in an institutional Iket matched words with totopong and udeng (refined Sundanese). In-totopong means wearing headgear according to certain rules. Shape totopong there called Bendo, Porténg, Lohen, Barangbang Semplak or Mantokan, Horse Ngencar and Paros Jackfruit or Kebo Modol ". Iket as part of completeness anggoan pameget (menswear) has a high aesthetic value. Iket as headgear has a value that is more valuable than other headgear, because in the process pembentukannyamemerlukan foresight, skill, perseverance, patience and a high aesthetic sense of the wearer. This will prove that iket can reflect the wearer's status symbol. 
In addition it also has significance iket knowledge and belief, iket is closely associated with monotheism and cultural elements. Iket have meaning as the bond that forms binding of rope. Iket also means totopong derived from the word flour (met) that goes into a loop and change the base word te be toto. Flour means met, met in this case means a symbol of the end of the meeting because the fabric is formed knot as a symbol of friendship. Iket implies binding heads. Objects that are bound head (men). Head has a meaning as a leader with the contents of the body, the brain. The brain is the organ of the human mind and the human traits noble creature of God's creation. The human brain has the creativity, initiative, a sense that is able to think. By using iket, the head can be protected as a vital organ. Iket formed a square of fabric that has four corners. The four corners have the meaning as kereteg angle Hate (kereteg = feeling or sound that arises by itself, Hate = heart. Kereteg Hate interpreted as an intention), speech (verbal), behavior (attitude), and body (bodies) which later cloth folded in half to form an isosceles triangle with three corners. Third angle reflects the three principles of the trinity of equality in the social life tritangtu comprising receipt religious leaders, rama (leader of the people) and perebu (leader region). This principle is expected to run harmony between determination, speech, behavior summarized in the human body. Iket also has meaning ngawengku (bind) all matters relating to worldly as it is delivered that is used by the Saehu iket. Saehu was a leader of the people who so upstream SAE, SAE hubungannana, tiasa ngiket kana sagala kamasyarakatan issue jeung kahirupan (nice to be chairman or leader, good social relations, able to unite and resolve Mr. Nyoman Rudana are using udeng. Sunda during the first iket a feature of menswear that is very important. The use of the Sundanese people iket serves as: a. Hair cover. b. Protective headgear. c. Tools to protect themselves. d. Tools for carrying goods. e. Tool for storing goods. f. As prayer rugs when praying five times g. Symbol of social status as a man or a symbol that indicates the identity of the everyday milieu. This symbol is shown through the models and types of fabrics used for iket. h. Respect for the position of a man such as is used when facing gentry, local government officials and scholars. Today Sundanese iket function in general as: a. One of the Sundanese ethnic marker. b. Sundanese ethnic markers in the customary fashion. c. Sundanese ethnic marker on the fashion dance show. There are different models for iket in West Java and Central Java. There are several models iket given names like barangbang semplak, parekos, or porteng. Balinese people wearing udeng / iket during traditional ceremonies. Udeng used by the Balinese so that when people go to the temples of Bali, their hair is not messy / neat.

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